What Did the Ancient Roman Perfume Smell Like?

In the tapestry of ancient civilizations, the Romans have long been admired for their enduring legacy. From monumental architecture to sophisticated governance, their contributions continue to fascinate us. But have you ever wondered about the more ephemeral aspects of their daily lives—like the scents that defined their world?

Recent archaeological breakthroughs are shedding light on ancient Roman perfume, offering a glimpse into the olfactory artistry of the past. In the picturesque town of Carmona, nestled in southwestern Spain’s Seville province, a remarkable discovery has captured the imagination of historians and perfumers alike.

Picture a time machine transporting you to the first and second centuries A.D., when Carmona thrived as a prominent municipality within the Roman province of Betica. Amid its grand buildings and bustling streets, a family mausoleum lay hidden for centuries. In 2019, during a routine renovation, this mausoleum revealed its secrets—a delicate quartz crystal bottle containing a preserved solid mass of Roman perfume, crafted nearly 2,000 years ago.

Join us as we unravel the mysteries of Roman fragrances, from their creation to their enduring influence. Discover how these ancient scents continue to captivate and inspire.

The perfume fashion in the times of Caesar and Cleopatra

During the era of Caesar and Cleopatra, perfume became a hallmark of sophistication and influence. Cleopatra, renowned for her love of fragrances, was said to have scented her ships with oils so that the air announced her arrival before she could be seen. This dramatic use of perfumes set a trend among the Roman elite, who sought to emulate her opulence. Julius Caesar himself was no stranger to the allure of scents, often indulging in the finest fragrances as symbols of power and luxury. Perfume became a means of making a statement, showcasing one’s status and refinement.

Scented ointments in ancient Rome

Scented ointments in ancient Rome were much more than luxurious accessories; they were integral to daily life and ritual practices. These ointments, created by infusing oils with aromatic ingredients, served multiple purposes. From moisturizing the skin to anointing the body during religious ceremonies, they reflected the Romans’ deep appreciation for fragrances. Rich in ingredients like myrrh, cinnamon, and spikenard, these ointments were stored in ornate containers, often made of alabaster or glass, signifying their value. The use of scented ointments also extended to public baths, where they were applied as a final touch after cleansing.

Who created perfumes during the Roman Empire

Perfumes in ancient Rome were crafted by skilled artisans known as unguentarii. These perfumers operated from specialized workshops called unguentariae, often located in bustling marketplaces. They were masters of blending oils, resins, and floral extracts to create bespoke fragrances. Unguentarii catered to a diverse clientele, from emperors and aristocrats to common citizens. Their craft combined science and artistry, as they experimented with proportions and ingredients to achieve the perfect scent. These artisans were pivotal in making perfume a celebrated aspect of Roman culture.

The origin of raw materials

The raw materials for Roman perfumes came from an extensive trade network that spanned the known world. Fragrant resins such as frankincense and myrrh were imported from Arabia and East Africa. Spices like cinnamon and cardamom arrived from India, while roses, violets, and other flowers were cultivated locally in Italy. Egypt, famous for its fertile lands, supplied ingredients like henna and lotus flowers. The cosmopolitan nature of the Roman Empire allowed it to source exotic and luxurious ingredients, which not only added variety to their perfumes but also symbolized the empire’s reach and wealth.

The most common raw materials in ancient Rome

Romans favored a variety of raw materials in their perfumes, each chosen for its unique properties and symbolism. Olive oil was a common base, prized for its ability to hold scents. Flowers such as roses, lilies, and violets were frequently used for their delicate aromas. Exotic spices like saffron and cinnamon added richness, while resins like galbanum and storax provided depth. Ingredients such as honey and wine were sometimes added to enhance the texture and fragrance. These natural elements reflected the Romans’ ingenuity in utilizing available resources to create sophisticated scents.

The price for a perfume in Rome in the second century A.D.

Perfumes in ancient Rome were luxury goods, with prices that varied widely depending on their quality and ingredients. A basic perfume made with local flowers and oils was accessible to the middle class, while exotic blends featuring imported resins and spices could cost a fortune. High-quality perfumes were considered treasures, often exchanged as gifts among the elite. Historical accounts suggest that some perfumes were so valuable that they were worth their weight in gold. This exclusivity reinforced their status as symbols of wealth and privilege.

The Science Behind the Spanish Perfume Discovery

Analyzing the Aromas

To decipher the Spanish perfume, researchers employed a battery of analytical techniques. These included X-ray diffraction (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dispersion X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), micro-Raman (Raman), and Fourier-transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopies. Additionally, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was employed to identify the specific components that comprised the perfume.

The Quartz Vessel and Its Hermetic Secret

The quartz Roman perfume bottle was itself a marvel of craftsmanship. It was crafted from dolomite, a rare and luxurious limestone. What set it apart, however, was its hermetic seal—a dark, tar-like substance identified as bitumen. This seal was not merely ornamental; it was the key to preserving the perfume over millennia.

Dolomite and Bitumen: Guardians of Scent

Dolomite, known for its durability, ensured the vessel’s state of preservation remained “magnificent.” Bitumen, acting as the ultimate preservative, locked the perfume molecules in a time capsule through a process known as adsorption. Like carbon filters used in gas masks, bitumen behaved as a non-volatile, scent-trapping guardian. This remarkable preservation shielded the perfume from degradation over centuries.

Patchouli’s Rare and Alluring Presence

One component, the ‘patchouli smells like’ revelation is particularly fascinating. Because, during the Roman era, patchouli was a rarity. It was derived from the tropical plant Pogostemon cablin, native to Southeast Asia. It found its way to Rome through extensive trade networks, reflecting the globalized nature of Rome – Spain. The presence of patchouli in this ancient perfume suggests that the woman interred with it belonged to a privileged social class.

Differences between ancient and contemporary perfumes

Ancient Roman perfumes differed significantly from their modern counterparts. The most notable difference was the base; Roman perfumes were oil-based, giving them a thicker consistency and longer-lasting fragrance. In contrast, modern perfumes use alcohol, which makes them lighter and more volatile. Additionally, Roman perfumes relied exclusively on natural ingredients, while contemporary perfumery incorporates synthetic compounds to replicate scents or create new ones. These differences not only reflect advancements in technology but also highlight the enduring allure of ancient methods.

The Roman Perfume Discovery in Carmona

Carmona: A Glimpse into Ancient Splendor

To understand the significance of the Roman perfume discovery, we must first explore the town of Carmona. It is nestled in the southwestern region of Spain, in the province of Seville. Carmona boasts a rich history that dates back millennia. However, it was during the first and second centuries A.D. that this town truly flourished. It was standing as one of the main municipalities within the Roman province of Betica.

The Family Mausoleum

In 2019, the spotlight turned once again to Carmona when a routine renovation project along its main road unearthed a discovery. Beneath the layers of time, the excavation team stumbled upon a well-preserved family mausoleum. It was a relic of the past that had remained hidden for centuries.

Within this mausoleum lay a treasure trove of history. Eight niches were discovered, each preserved, with two never having been used. Remarkably, this sacred space had remained untouched by grave robbers.

A Crystal Vessel of Secrets

Among the treasures hidden within these niches, one artifact stood out— a delicate quartz crystal bottle.  Inside this bottle lay a solid mass, shrouded in the unmistakable scent of antiquity.

The Analytical Odyssey

The study of this crystal bottle was in the capable hands of researchers from the University of Córdoba. They employed a range of analytical techniques and  embarked on an archaeological odyssey to uncover the secrets.

Patchouli: Ancient Roman Perfume

The outcome of this scientific quest was nothing short of astonishing. For the very first time, the precise scent of a Roman perfume, crafted some 2,000 years ago, was unveiled with scientific accuracy. The revelation echoed through the hallowed halls of perfumery circles alike: “The Romans smelled of patchouli.”

 

 

Perfume in Spanish

The Scribes of Scent

To understand the ancient Roman perfume, we turn to historical figures like Pedanio Dioscórides Anazarbeo and Pliny the Elder. These early scribes of scent meticulously documented perfume recipes. Dioscórides, a physician, compiled recipes with aromatic oils that served both perfumery and medicinal purposes. Meanwhile, Pliny the Elder delved into the detailed procedures of perfume creation. He highlighted the importance of balance and proportion in crafting the perfect scent.

Chasing Shadows in Perfumed Records

Recreating the ancient Roman perfumes presents a challenge. The historical records left behind by Dioscórides and Pliny, while invaluable, are akin to tantalizing fragments of a larger mosaic. Vague and incomplete, they leave the modern perfumer with riddles to solve. The proportions of components and the precise techniques for their preparation remain elusive.

What happened after the Roman Empire

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the art of perfumery saw a decline in Europe. However, it thrived in the Middle East, where Islamic scholars preserved and enhanced the craft. These advancements eventually made their way back to Europe during the Crusades, sparking a revival in the perfume industry. The rediscovery of ancient Roman techniques inspired a new era of fragrance-making, blending Eastern and Western traditions. This legacy continues to influence modern perfumery, ensuring that the Roman contribution to this art remains alive.

Patchouli’s Journey to Ancient Rome

Roots in Southeast Asia

The story of patchouli begins in the lush, tropical landscapes of Southeast Asia. The Pogostemon cablin plant thrives here. Patchouli has long been cherished by indigenous communities for these leaves’ aromatic qualities. Its captivating scent was a well-kept secret, cocooned within the dense foliage of Southeast Asia.

The Trade Routes of Aroma

The odyssey of patchouli from Southeast Asia to Rome is a testament to the trade networks that crisscrossed the ancient world. Roman encountered this elusive scent, recognizing its potential value. Along the Silk Road and maritime trade routes, patchouli found its way into the bazaars of Rome.

Laboratory Alchemy Reveals the Essence

The culmination of this fragrant journey lies within the laboratory analyses. Through the precision of gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), the distinct fingerprint of patchouli essential oil emerged. Among its many components, patchouli alcohol confirms the presence of this fragrance in the ancient Roman perfume.

Final Thoughts

The story of Roman perfume showcases the artistry and sophistication of ancient Roman culture. From luxurious raw materials to intricate craftsmanship, these fragrances symbolized status and spirituality. The discovery in Carmona offers a deeper understanding of their legacy, reminding us how these timeless scents continue to inspire modern perfumery.

FAQs

What did Roman perfume smell like?

Roman perfume was a fragrant blend of various aromatic elements, including patchouli. It is an ingredient that has been identified as a key component in the perfume discovered in Carmona, Spain.

What did ancient Romans use as perfume?

Ancient Romans used a wide array of natural ingredients for perfumery, including essential oils derived from sesame, horseradish, almonds, and olive oil.

What did Romans use to smell good?

Romans used perfumes and scented oils to enhance their personal fragrance. The application of these fragrances was part of their daily grooming routine.

Did the Romans wear perfume?

Yes, the Romans indeed wore perfume. Perfumes were not only reserved for special occasions but were also an integral part of their daily lives.